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Trench Coat: Historical Origins

• From one of the most iconic pieces of military uniform, to one of the most iconic pieces in fashion; the trench coat is so much more than an accessory. The history of the trench coat dates back over 150 years

• The trench coat was used as an item of clothing worn Army officer.

• It was during the Great War that this classic garment took the shape and style that so many of us still wear today. The classic style of the coat still has these military influences.

History Of The Trench Coats Development

Country – Britain

• Originally developed for officers of the British Army.

Cultre – Western Culture

The traditional aesthetic of a trench, consisted of the following:

• A double breasted finish
• 10 front buttons

• A storm flap

• Wide lapels

• Button fastened pockets

• Belted at the waist

• Buckled straps around the wrist

• Waterproof

• Made from heavy duty cotton gabardine drill

• Alternatives are leather or poplin

• Insulated lining

• Raglan sleeves

• Lengths ranging from just above the ankles to just above the knees

• Usually in a khaki colour

Who Invented The Trench Coat

Designers and fabric manufacturers developed the material over the years, to try and make it more breathable, and thus, more wearable.

Designers:

• Mayfair gentlemen’s clothier, John Emary

• Menswear business designer Thomas Burberry

Characteristics of the trench coat and their uses

The trench coat is so much more than a piece of outerwear. The fabric and the development has helped officers of the army stay dry and camouflaged. The classic khaki and beige colours of the trench helped officers to stay as concealed as possible. There are many other aspects of the coat that were developed specifically to assist soldiers at war.

• The shoulder straps were added to the coat in World War I so that soldiers could attach items such as their epaulettes and their rank insignia. They would also provide padding against the butt of a shotgun.

• D rings were added for the purpose of holding equipment such as map cases and swords.

• The large pockets were an essential, as they were used to hold military gear

• Ventilation flaps were added for expelling any unpleasant odours, as well as helping keep the coats breathable.

• The length of the trench coat was well thought out too. There were made to be short enough so that they wouldn’t trail too much in the mud and mire. They were also slightly flared at the waist, to allow maximum movement.

• The back yoke of the coat had crosses, which allowed water and mud to slough off

• Originally, the trench coats came with a removable warm lining. This could be used as a blanket.

• The collar buttons at the neck were designed so that gas masks could be tucked tightly in to make them as efficient as possible.

• The cuff straps allowed binoculars to be secured when in use.

How the ‘Trench Coat’ has reappeared over the centuries up until the 1990’s

• As the war ended, the coats’ popularity stayed intact: officers still wore them, and they were used again in World War II.

• From here, the trench coat continued its ascent into style iconography with the slick gangsters, upstanding gentlemen, detectives, and never-do-wells of ‘40s and ‘50s cinema.

• The trench coat became popular for women after the war, too, into the 1960s and then present day.

It was worn by Marilyn Monroe in her 1960 film Let’s Make Love and Brigitte Bardot in Roger Vadim’s Love on a Pillow from 1962.

BOGART IN CASABLANCA wearing a Burberry trench on his back. The coat from that film is still iconic and he only wore it in two scenes.

• The minimalist creation was deconstructed and reconstructed by Jean – Paul Gaultier. This deconstructed style returns this coming Spring/Summer 2018 season, having sailed down the runways last September as brands like Alexander Mc Queen, Balenciaga, and Margiela all put their own spin on the garment.

• Throughout its life, the trench coat has seen everything from battles to runways, bayonets to bloggers. It’s been worn up and down, by officers and accountants, princes and artists, morphing from its signature gabardine to fabrics like suede, patent leather, and even plastic as fashion and time continue to move on. Despite our constant style evolution, however, the trench coat remains a classic we’ll never stop fighting for.

MAISON MARGIELA

SPRING/SUMMER 2018

Trench Style

Alexa Chung

Evolution of trench coats

• From wartime essential to a fashion accessory, the evolution of trench coat has been quite exiting.

• The coat received massive popularity after it was worn by Hollywood celebrities in famous movies (Foreman 2018).

Evolution of trench coats

• Homage was paid by the celebrities during the golden age of Hollywood as its massive use was there from detectives to gangsters and leading men and women roles (Thestar.com 2018).

Evolution of trench coats

• The basic colors for trench coats were khaki and beige, however, after its adoption by Hollywood artists the trench coats were started being made into a wide range of colors (Foreman 2018).

Evolution of trench coats

• Along with a wide range of colors, designers also experimented with its style keeping the current trend in mind (Thestar.com 2018).

Evolution of trench coats

• In the years of 1990s, the fashion industry breathed new life into trench by experimenting with different fabrics inclusive of lace, satin, python skins and so on (Foreman 2018).

Evolution of trench coats

• The trench has come a long from its classic color and style, from Humphrey Bogart to Juardan Dunn (Foreman 2018).

Evolution of trench coats

• Even though, several designers experimented with its style, certain features of trench remained same like wide lapels, belted waist, epaulettes and large pockets (Thestar.com 2018).

Evolution of trench coats

• The weatherproof finish along with lightweight fabric also remained signature style of trench coats (Foreman 2018).

Evolution of trench coats

• After 2000s, the major change has been the shorter style of the coat. Manufacturers addressed the issue of the length of the coats and started making the coats shorter (Thestar.com 2018).

Modern trench coats

• The major feature of modern trench coats is that it is designed in a way that can be worn in all seasons (Foreman 2018).

References

• Foreman, K. (2018). The trench: A coat for allseasons. [online] Bbc.com. Available at: https://www.bbc.com/culture/story/20131024-the-trench-coat-for-all-seasons [Accessed 30 Oct. 2018].

• com (2018). Evolution of Burberry's iconictrench coat - Fashion | The Star Online. [online] Thestar.com.my. Available at: https://www.thestar.com.my/lifestyle/women/fas hion/2014/04/23/evolution-of-burberrys-iconic-trench-coat/ [Accessed 30 Oct. 2018].