The Evolution Of Women's Trousers: From Bloomers To Denim

The Fashion Reform Movement of the 1800s

The history of trousers for women in the west from the time of Amelia bloomer to today & role of trousers in contemporary fashion:

By studying several fashion era magazines, it was found out that the female political idealist of the French was the first one to initiate the moment of reforming the women’s apparel. Her opinion with regards to women wearing trousers had clearly echoed in the region of America. The research says that the reform was talked about long ago before it was developed globally by Mrs. Amelia Bloomer (Thomas, 2000). Let us now discuss the women’s clothing fashion in the middle age of the 1800’s; the approx. period was middle of 18th century. There was a team of women who started claiming for having freedom for women. The campaign of fashion reform was led by the leader of feminists. The activist’s moments appeal to have new style of clothing for women at offices, or for sports events.    

                                 

Figure one: Mrs. Bloomer with vintage style trouser

The research says that one of the designer and activists named Elizabeth Smith Miller has created a kind of trouser which was little bit long and puffy, and tight in the area of ankles. This trouser was worn by Amelia Bloomer with a short knee length white color dress (shown in figure two). The Amelia Bloomer was kind of the women who promoted the women fashion in those eras, and there was a turnaround change in women fashion industry in 18^thcentury. We can say that Amelia Bloomer was the person who drew attention to such trousers’ style in media and gained appreciation and much attention. There were several feminine activists with her but she proved to be a good influencer (nps.gov, 1900).

We can see Picture of a lady named Lucy Stone who was an “American abolitionist and suffragist”. Lucy stone had met Amelia Bloomer in the year of 1852. We can see the photo of her wearing trouser with different style of trouser, loose and comfortable lower with long dress. The figure three has shown the Lucy stone with Amelia Bloomer fashion design of trouser.

Prior to the era of 18th century, the trousers were allowed to be put on by the head the family only. If someone asks who wear pant or trousers, it means he refers to the head of the family. But the scenario was changed by the end of the 19th century. With an advent of moment for reforming the women clothing by Amelia Bloomer, there were new fashion trends that came into the picture. Figure three: Lucy stone with loose trouser and long dress (Monet, 2016)

Amelia Bloomer and the Bloomers

Figure three: Lucy stone with loose trouser and long dress (Monet, 2016)

Women re noticed wearing “toned down bloomers or knickers for bike riding and other sports” in the society. Moreover, there were two types of trousers which were suggested by Mrs Bloomer for minorities and rich families. The two figures show that the minorities can wear baggy bloomer pants with frills and reaches till ankle; it was to be worn with short top or a bodices. But at that time, this type of bloomer’s trousers were not accepted and the year after death of Amelia Bloomer, many of the women had accepted the bloomer style trouser in the year of 1895. We can see in the figure four it is more comfortable and easy to handle. The given picture was published in the “The Girl's Own paper” with an article of safe girl cycling in1880.

The figure five shows the ankle trouser for rich people for the era of 1850s. “Mrs. Bloomer abandoned trousers in 1857 when she admitted she found the cage crinoline comfortable compared to the weight of petticoats.” These were few last fashion trends which were introduced by Bloomer.

 

One year after the death, these trousers were appreciated and known as bloomers. There was no doubt that she has carried the most thrilling fashion in between 1818-1894 (Leventon, 2008).

Now moving to the 19th -20th century, the iconic apparel of the western culture was jeans, or dungarees. The trend was introduced in the later part of the 19th century. The fashion designing was mainly developed and promoted for gold miners of California City. To have more durable pant or a trouser, the concept of double stitching was introduced. But this double stitched jeans was perceived as more stylish and durable. More emphasis was of its modern look. “Embraced by farmers and laborers, jeans ultimately became the iconic garment of the late 20th century and are, today, a staple of every wardrobe (N.A, 2008).” Earlier, the dungarees were referred to the apparel of navy officers in the duration of world war one (CONGER, 2013). Then, in the late 20th century, the name was replaced by the fashion brand name of jeans or denim. The first look of jeans was shown in the play of blue jeans (Figure six). Furthermore, “Levi's tough durability, convenient pockets, and distinctive style created a fashion icon that lasted over 100 years.”

Denim and Dungarees in the Late 19th Century

By the end of 19th century, the wrangler and Levi were introduced, the famous brand for denim in today’s world. “Levi's tough durability, convenient pockets, and distinctive style created a fashion icon that lasted over 100 years.” Two or three decade later, Hollywood movies have started depicting the different fashion trends in denim for women. The denim was not only consider as a professional attire but also an apparel for leisure and appearance. The figure seven shows a girl, who is taking rest after the factory hours, wears blue trouser with white formal shirt.  

In 1945, the bell bottom jeans were introduced with the song of “Bell Bottom Trousers 1945”. Figure eight shows the women wearing bell bottom jeans in one of the Hollywood movie and loose jeans in 1952, wore by a lady in image nine (Tim Gunn's Fashion Bible: The Fascinating History of Everything in Your Closet; , 2012).

Entering in the 20th century, “Paul Poiret, the famous early 20th century fashion designer, introduced a line based on the Ballet Russes' Sheherazade which featured a long tunic worn over harem pants.” The figure 10 shows the loose trousers which are found in most of the women’s wardrobe. It became famous in the 1930s and shown in many of the movies and advertisements. Most of the fashion was introduced by the film stars. Because there was an era where people had started having television at home and fond of movies. So it was easy way to catch customer’s attention.             

                         

There is one more kind of trouser known as zippers which was created by “Elsa Shiaparelli” in the year of 1935 but it was promoted by “Whitcomb Judson” in the middle of 20th century. The zipper pants appear little bit bulky and heavy.

In the late 20th century, there were ample of designs available in the industry for women’s trousers, denim or capris. Several styles of trousers have been introduced in the last 100 years. it was even observed that many styles which were ancient have come back and adopted with full enthusiasm. Such as “the stirrup stretch pants of the early 1960s returned in the 1980s. Capris have disappeared and made a come-back.”

We saw several types of trousers starting from 1818 till 2016. the history of trousers is surprising in a way. Looking at few pic of vintage style, we still found such styles in today’s movies and plays. There are different styles of trousers available in the market today, loose trousers with short top, zippers, loose pants and capris with tight tees and ankle length jeans with tunics (Cartner, 2017).

Denim in Hollywood and Bell Bottoms

Let us now discuss the role of trousers in the contemporary fashion. Basically, Contemporary apparel is type of clothing that is accessible, in price and in terms of the way people wear it. Generally the contemporary category of clothing seems more modern and young, as it frequently carries the latest fashion trends in the teenagers’ world. Discussing the jeans as part of the contemporary fashion, it is one of the fashions which have been lasted since 18th century, and now it has become a part of every single women's American’s wardrobe. Moreover, it is observed that jeans have come back with the same vintage classic styles, as they were there in 1950s. The designs are repeating but the trend of jeans or a trouser seems all time classic and fashionable (Steele, 2005). 

The trousers of many types are being worn by the minorities while serving in the hotels or restaurants. But the design of trouser for such community is different than the people wearing in parties and functions. The trousers have been designed in more than 100 ways which will cater to the requirements of every single women in the society, be it housewife, professionals, servants, air hostess, etc. Looking at each and every fashion coming in near future, trousers are the major part of it.  The interest for trousers was never faded out. It is constant and people are looking for more upcoming designs with regards to trousers (Alsico France, 2017). Many of the designers are recreating trouser designs from the vantage style. We saw the fashion trend in trousers starting from the 18th century till today. The contemporary designs are developed after studying the socio cultural trends in the society (Minozzo, 2017).

Based on the entire history of trousers, it was observed that the moment of reforming women’s clothing was initiated by Amelia Bloomer and hence we are witnessing the range of designs and style of women’s trousers in contemporary fashion. She will always be in the history of fashion as she is considered as a “American women’s rights advocate, who gave her name to the emancipatory bloomer style of clothing because of her prestige as a spokesperson for (first100years.org.uk, 2016).’’

References

Alsico France (2017) The different roles of work clothing, [Online], Available:

https://www.alsicofrance.com/en/work-trousers-work-clothing/ [6 March 2017].

Ballerina and Costume designer Bullet russe, [Online], Available:

https://www.google.co.in/searchq=line+based+on+the+Ballet+Russes%27+SHEHERAZADE+by+paul+pariots&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=640&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj5vdmMocHSAhUBebwKHZpOCP8Q_AUIBygC#tbm=isch&q=line+based+on+the+Ballet+Russes%27+SCHEHERAZADE+by+ [6 march 2017].

Cartner, J. (2017) What I wore this week: the wide-leg trouser, 3 March, [Online], Available:

https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2017/mar/03/jess-cartner-morley-wide-leg-trousers-fashion [6 March 2017].

CONGER, C. (2013) When did women begin wearing pants?, 2 October, [Online], Available:

https://www.stuffmomnevertoldyou.com/blogs/when-did-women-begin-wearing-pants.htm [6 March 2017].

first100years.org.uk (2016) Women in Trousers, 1 June, [Online], Available:

https://first100years.org.uk/women-in-trousers/ [6 March 2017].

Leventon, M. (2008) A Complete Illustrated History of Costumes From Ancient Times to the 19th Centur, [Online] [7 March 2017].

Leventon, M. (2008) Complete Illustrated History of Costumes From Ancient Times to the 19th Century, [Online], Available:

https://bellatory.com/fashion-industry/A-History-of-Trousers-and-Pants-in-Western-Culture [6 March 2017].

Minozzo, A. (2017) THEORETICAL AND CONTEMPORARY FASHION STUDIES , [Online], Available:

https://www.arts.ac.uk/fashion/courses/lcf-study-abroad/fashion-business-study-abroad-semester/fashion-theory-course/ [6 March 2017].

Monet, D. (2016) A History of Trousers and Pants in Western Culture, 13 December, [Online], Available:

https://bellatory.com/fashion-industry/A-History-of-Trousers-and-Pants-in-Western-Culture [6 March 2017].

N.A (2008) Trousers, 15 October, [Online], Available:

https://www.britannica.com/topic/trousers [6 March 2017].

N.A (2014) latest women trousers styles and fashion, September, [Online] [5 March 2017].

nps.gov (1900) Amelia Bloomer, [Online], Available:

https://www.nps.gov/wori/learn/historyculture/amelia-bloomer.htm [6 March 2017].

Steele, V. (2005) 'The Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion', Library of Daily Life; Charles Scribner's Sons'.

Thomas, P.W. (2000) Rational Dress Reform Fashion History - Mrs Bloomer, [Online], Available:

https://www.fashion-era.com/rational_dress.htm [6 March 2017].

Tim Gunn's Fashion Bible: The Fascinating History of Everything in Your Closet; (2012), New York; : Gallery Books.

Trousers: Definition of Clothing (2016), [Online], Available:

https://www.apparelsearch.com/definitions/clothing/trousers_definition.htm [6 March 2017].